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700R4 Mods & Tips Install
the Billet 2-4 Servo, It has 35% more apply surface as
the Corvette servo. And the servo cushion spring is deleted
for a harder 1-2 shift. Put
the .500 or .521 TV boost valve in. This is one of the
biggest shift modifiers due to higher line pressure bias.
More pressure means exact hard shifts without slippage.
Less slippage means less wear and hard apply of
the clutches and TCC lockup. This will help save the 3‑4
clutches on WOT shifts. Put
the hardened pump rings. These are needed when you start
running high pressure from you pump. Use your stock springs
in the pump if you are using a Syclone 4L60. They are the
strongest available A
Fiber 2-4 band with the anchor pin hole weld reinforced
or weld a heavy washer to the anchor hole collar, and
drill it out a bit for the pin if needed. Otherwise, the huge
2-4 Servo will rip it by hitting it so hard. Use the
fiber
2-4 band if you are using a used reverse clutch drum.
Only use a Kevlar band if you what to replace the reverse input
clutch drum for a new one. A fiber band will conform
to
the used drum's grooves where a Kevlar one won't. They
both give great apply when they are used properly. You want Type F fluid for firmer shifts. You will have
to change it every 5000-7500 miles though. Trick Shift
friction modifiers aren't needed, Trick Shift is Type F
dyed blue. Always supplement your fluids with LUBEGUARD.
A Few people have had problems with Type F if they haven't
rebuilt and used Scotch Brite on
the valves to ensure valves are clean and free moving. Grind
the land down on the pressure regulator valve. Two helped,
when in 4th gear and the TC unlocks while throttle
position starts to drop, the planetary gears get starved
for oil. This will increase the flow to the TC lockup clutch
for better apply pressure and better flow out of the cooler
lines. This will drop
line pressure by about 50 lbs. but the bigger .500 or.
521 TV Boost valves more than compensates for this drop. Planetaries are
weak and expensive to replace, the other reason is that
it makes noise sometimes when it passes by the valve. You
can modify the sun gears to aid planetary lubrication buy
cutting a slit in the gear surface that rides against the
Torrington bearing, Cut a small slit in the edge 1/16" deep
and then cut another slit 180 degrees (basically straight
across on the same surface). Do this mod to both sun gears.
If you do this modification, be sure to set your end clearance
to .005 - .010." A #72 selective washer usually does
the trick. This washer is included in the thrust washer
kit. If you don't set end clearance to this range, the torrigton bearing may fail. The
TECKPAK Orifice cup plug reducer on the reverse input piston
prevents that hesitance when going into reverse after it
has sat for a couple of hours. It's called TC drain back. If
you are bending the tangs on your 3-4 clutch apply ring
due to high pressure, get a 3-4 clutch apply ring from
a 96 and up 4L60E at your Local GM dealer if you don't
already have the better apply ring. It will have a "7" stamped
on it. Our trannys should already
have them, most don't. This Apply Ring is the strongest
available. If you want to make it stronger, TIG weld reinforce
the 3-4 clutch apply ring with 1/8" plate steel pieces
about 2 V.-" long so they just fit inside the fingers.
Drill three holes equidistant in the in the middle down
the length. TIG weld at these holes, the greater pressure
will cause this ring to balloon out in the middle of the
flanges. Make
sure to machine and mic the
pump and vanes if they need it for better tolerance and
higher pressure. Check to make sure your faces are flat.
Check this by using a straight edge and running it over
the complete surface of the pump body and the stator body.
Flat file it if it isn't flat. Check
the face for flatness. Do the same thing as the pump if
it isn't truly flat. Seal
the 3-4 bleed hole on the input drum. They leak too much
and it causes the 3-4 clutch pack to bum up sometimes.
It's better to just weld, epoxy it shut. I use JB Weld.
No more mysterious 3-4 clutch-pack burn‑ups. Always
use the solid Teflon seals on the stator shaft instead
of the standard scarf cut seals. '93 4L60's and
up should already use them so replace them with the same.
The solid seals will hold up to the pressure better and
allow for more consistent shift characteristics. Scotch Brite all servo and accumulator bores. When
you have the reverse clutch drum out, look to see that
the area the 2-4 band rides on is shiny and smooth. 400
grit sand paper will help this
if needed. Adjust the band to 1/ 16" to 1/8" for
the best clearance. Check this by assembling the servo
and putting the cover on without the seal at first. Now
press in on the cover and check the travel by measuring
the clearance between the cover and the snap ring with
a feeler gauge. Once you got it correctly pull it out and
put on the seals and reassemble. Get
a Derale tranny pan. It offers the best cooling. Always concentrate
on cooling. Better cooling means longer tranny life and
better shifts. Also
go with an external STACKED PLATE tranny cooler. Larger
(GVW) the better with fan. If
you are having problems with the 3-4 Shift at WOT don't
let them write it off as a valve body so quickly. You may
need different springs in your governor or the Fairbank's designed
up shift sleeve that we should have already but inconsistencies
at the factory might have deleted this option on accident.
These sleeves are available from many companies for ~ $30.00 After
you have your cooling taken care of, put in a remote tranny
filter kit from You
don't need to get a shift kit (if you have a Syclone or
Typhoon) because our tranny comes with the stiffest springs
available, many kits are even softer than our stock configuration.
The modifications above are all that is needed for the
strongest and crispest shifts possible. If you were building
up a Corvette or lesser tranny and didn't want to take
the time to piece meal one together, then a Trans Go shift
kit might be a good alternative. Also
get a custom 2650-2900 stall lockup Torque Converter if
you are running close to stock SyTy specs.
You'll need to consider a different stall if you are either
modified or a different automobile. The 9/11" lockup TC's are
good. PI's are alright too. Note.
If using Dextron 3, you can
supplement your fluid with 30 weight motor oil at 20% total
volume or 4:1 to help lube the seals. It won't hurt the
tranny. I use Synthetic with Lube guard additive exclusively.
I suggest you use Mobil I Synthetic or equivalent. Type
F sometimes sticks valves in a few VB's and
there isn't anything you can do about it except revert
back to Synths. For
a chattering TC lockup clutch, get some Limited Slip fluid
from GM used to keep the limited slip differentials from
chattering and popping. Drill the oil return line orifice out to 9/32 or 5/16
in both halves of the pump to ease oil pressure behind
front pump seal. TIPS I found that most of the bushings can be removed by slitting
them carefully w/ a Dremel tool
w/ a small round bur chucked, then peel' em out
w/ a screwdriver or just tap gently - just don't screw
up the bore they go in. Hacksaw will work, too, if you're *real* careful. A bushing installer tool can be made from various
bolts, washers & nuts; get a good selection from local
hardware store. Some
wood plugs to fit inside the bushings & You can get it tanked but you still need to clean the
solvent really good. I
take it to the car wash and degrease it and blow out all
the fluid. I then clean up the case with a wire brush until
it's shiny and polish it up to a nice reflective smooth
finish. I then go over it with Brake Kleen.
That's what I use to do the final cleaning on parts before
I put them in. Use about 9cans per tranny. Here's a tip to keep you safe. Go get a couple of cargo straps with the buckles (not the ratchets) and make a cradle or safety net. Hook the strap into the frame, then up over the torsion bar, then under the tranny, then up over the next torsion bar, then hook to the frame. Put them on as you get close to being ready to drop it down. It also helps when you put it back up. |