Syclone 1178
Tech Articles

JS Mfg.

Thanks to everyone that posted ideas on what they had done. I finally did a combination of things other people have done and I am very happy with the results. Jegs and Summit sell kits that are already done. But by the time you pay $30 to $35 for the kit and $8 or $9 shipping and handling you've got almost $45 in a project that shouldn't cost you more than $20. 
The remote solenoid is NAPA part #ECHST81. Will look just like the one in the sketch I made above. The terminal ends I bought at Autozone. They were hanging with all the other adapter along the battery wall they have there.

I used a Ford remote starter solenoid mounted over where the battery used to be like Sean Morris said to use. My battery is relocated but there is plenty of room in front of the coolant overflow tank for the solenoid to be mounted on the inner fender. Cut the ends off of the stock positive and negative cable and soldered my extensions on using rosin core solder and a propane torch like Myclone(Dave)did with his. Heat shrink and sealed up nice. The alternator, battery, and headlights were all soldered to a fitting that bolted onto the battery side of the solenoid. I had to do it this way because I used a longer positive cable since the battery was down under the fender now. The stock starter wire(foil heat shielded) ran from the other big post on the solenoid down to the starter.
 Now on the starter, I used an 1/8" piece of copper ground strap about 1" wide like you get at Lowe's and drilled two holes in it so I could bridge the starter's battery post (the large stud that the battery cable connects to) with the post the old purple wire went to. No more purple wire to deal with as the current to the old plunger now comes from a 4 gauge wire that feeds the starter motor and the strap feeds the old plunger.

Now on the purple wire, I did like Richard did and went over top of the brake booster and opened up the loom. There are 3 purple wires in there. 1 is bigger than the others. Used a multimeter(set to check continuity) and found out for certain which one was the bastard purple wire I needed. I cut it and spliced on a new 10 gauge wire and ran it along the firewall where the windshield wiper motor is all the way over the relays for boost and CAC all the way to the passenger side fender and ran it down the fender to the Ford solenoid. On the solenoid one of the two small studs(most likely the one on the left) was labeled with an "S". This is the one the ignition switch will now feed with 12 volts when you turn the key. The signal is ground to the fender through the bracket of the solenoid where the mounting bolts go through. Make sure you use those little washers that cut into the metal when the self tapping screws are tightened.
If you do this project make certain that you keep the alternator on the side that shares the battery contact. In other words, don't cut the alternator wire. The alternator wire is slightly smaller in diameter than the battery cables. This is very important because the side of the solenoid with the cable that now runs down to the starter will only be live when the solenoid is fed 12 volts through the "S" terminal.

My voltage jumped almost a full volt (while the engine is running)from improved contact to the alternator with the battery and the starter spins no matter how hot it gets anymore. The starter I used was an AC Delco I got from the dealer. No one around here carries them anymore unless you want a rebuilt unit from
China or Taiwan.
During a fire safety inspection(I work for the local fire dept)and found an armature rebuilding facility. They do alternators and starters. All kinds. Some of these alternators were 10" in diameter and 12" long. The gentleman that owns the shop said it is a dying art because it is cheaper for people to go to a discount parts store and buy a cheaply rebuilt unit from China or Mexico instead of having their old units rebuilt. This place was most impressive and the owner was most helpful in explaining how this stuff works and why it quits working sometimes.

Another thing on starters. NO MATTER WHERE YOU GET IT, LOOK AT THE ALUMINUM NOSE END THAT THE SOLENOID BOLTS TO(the side that points to the rear). If it says "SHIM" on it, make them take it back and find you another that does not have it on there. These were for 4cylinders and 2.8 V6's.  4.3 liter V6's don't benefit from this at all as you can shim all day and your clearance won't be right and it will scream like baby every time you crank it over.

I didn't like the Hot Shot relay because I didn't like the idea of all the constant fed 12 volt wires running all over the place down by the exhaust and it still didn't address heat related voltage resistance issues.
PS:The heat shield that Auto Zone now sells will absolutely NOT fit the solenoid on our starters. No matter how much you cut or trim it. Mine hit the exhaust manifold and still didn't have enough room for the starter wire. It fits the old huge solenoids but not ours.....

Here's some pics of the purple wire that you will need to splice into in order to feed the "S" terminal on the solenoid. This is just over the power brake booster on the driver's side firewall. These were used under the permission of Brian Wyse (AKA Bdubb).

The end of the wire that is under Bdubb's thumb is the one that runs down to the starter. You can see in the foreground where he has spliced on a LARGE black wire onto the original purple starter wire coming from the ignition switch in the column. That black wire is what runs over to the remote solenoid.

 Here's another shot.

George Blake


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